MILWAUKEE, WI — As Black American women gear up for the 2024 Olympics in Paris, their hair has emerged as a prominent feature of personal expression and cultural representation. This focus on their hairstyles highlights a broader narrative of identity and empowerment within the athletic community.

Emphasizing Hair and Identity

Among the athletes making headlines is Kendall Ellis, a 28-year-old sprinter who plans to celebrate her natural hair texture on the Olympic stage. Ellis, a 400-meter runner, revealed that contemplating her hairstyle was one of her initial thoughts after qualifying for the Games. She intends to sport a sew-in—a type of hair extension sewn over braided hair—that mirrors her natural texture. “I want to adopt a more natural-looking style because it’s crucial to showcase that representation on such a prominent platform,” Ellis elaborated.

Ellis's choice is reflective of a wider trend among Black female Olympians. Athletes like water polo goalkeeper Ashleigh Johnson and track competitors Brittany Brown and Anna Cockrell approach their hair care not as a challenge but as a chance to highlight their individual styles and cultural heritage.

“If you look good, you run fast!” asserted Brown, who will race in the 200-meter sprint. Her remark underscores a common belief among athletes that their appearance is integral to both their performance and self-esteem.

Historical Context and Cultural Significance

The scrutiny and discrimination faced by Black women athletes regarding their hair have deep historical roots. Venus Williams faced penalties for her beaded hairstyle, while controversies surrounding swim caps designed for natural hair and criticisms directed at gymnasts Gabby Douglas and Simone Biles for not conforming to conventional beauty standards illustrate ongoing challenges.

Ketra Armstrong, Director of the Center for Race and Ethnicity in Sport at the University of Michigan, noted that the current generation of Black female athletes is actively challenging and redefining the narrative around hair discrimination. “For a long time, Black women had to conform to standards that deemed their hair unkempt or unprofessional,” Armstrong observed. “We are now at a stage where Black women are reclaiming their crown.”

In this context, athletes like swimmer Simone Manuel have publicly shared their hair care routines, and sprinter Sha’Carri Richardson has become known for her vibrant wigs and intricate braids. Richardson’s hair choices, inspired by legendary Olympic sprinters Florence Griffith-Joyner and Gail Devers, have significantly contributed to her public persona and success since 2019.

Paris Olympics: A Platform for Personal Expression

The Paris Olympics will serve as a new chapter in the narrative of Black female athletes and their hair. Johnson, making her third Olympic appearance, has seen her relationship with her hair evolve since her debut in 2016. She now opts for a short, natural style, typically dyed blond at the top. For Paris, she plans to wear cornrows with a touch of color, a style that will stay close to her head under her swim cap and enhance her performance in the water.

“Maintaining a protective style is crucial for my hair’s health,” Johnson explained. “I feel that I’m supporting my hair while also achieving my hair goals at this level of competition.” Johnson’s hair care regimen includes using products from brands like Camille Rose, Rizos Curls, and Biolage to keep her hair hydrated despite frequent exposure to water.

Camaraderie and Challenges

Johnson also highlighted the strong sense of camaraderie among Black women athletes regarding hair care. They often share recommendations for hair braiders and stylists and exchange tips on maintaining various styles, including silk presses. This network of support underscores the collective experiences and mutual encouragement within the community.

Richardson, celebrated for her distinctive and colorful hairstyles, approaches her preparation with a strong sense of personal style and confidence. She views her time in competition as an opportunity to “glam up,” embracing the philosophy that looking good and feeling good translate into enhanced performance.

Stylist Support and Self-Care

Although athletes like Brown, Johnson, Ellis, and Cockrell are skilled in managing their hair, many express a desire for professional stylists to travel with them, akin to Simone Biles’ experience with her stylist Jazmine Johnson. Jazmine Johnson’s emphasis on hair health and repair, using products from brands like K18, highlights the importance of prioritizing hair health over style preferences.

Anna Cockrell, a 400-meter hurdler, describes her hair care routine involving Innersense for her curly hair and finds her pre-race hair preparation to be nearly meditative. She values this process as a time for self-care and mental preparation.

Systemic Challenges and Self-Reliance

Despite progress, Black female athletes continue to confront challenges such as discriminatory regulations and the difficulty of finding stylists during travel. For example, the initial ban of the Soul Cap, designed to accommodate natural hair in swimming, was overturned in 2022 following widespread public criticism.

To address these issues, athletes like Brown have turned to self-education, such as learning to cornrow through YouTube tutorials. “It’s a unique Black girl challenge,” she remarked with a laugh, recognizing the ongoing need for ingenuity and resilience in managing their hair care while competing.

Conclusion

As Black American female athletes head to the Paris Olympics, their hair serves as a powerful symbol of personal expression and cultural pride. Their choices reflect a significant shift in how hair is perceived and managed in sports, emphasizing representation, self-care, and the reclamation of personal identity. The Olympics will thus not only showcase athletic excellence but also celebrate the evolving narrative surrounding Black women’s hair in the world of sports.